When the legendary supermodel Iman was first discovered in 1975 by photographer Peter Beard in Nairobi, Kenya, a New York Post article claimed that the young discovery was a goat herder who did not speak a lick of English. Arriving in the US three months after the article’s publication, Iman shocked the press when she revealed that she actually spoke English, plus an additional four languages, and was the daughter of a diplomat.
“I was going to speak for myself when I got here,” Iman told TheWrap, underlining that she set the record straight to undo the mythology built around the young model before she moved to the States.
This clever move enabled Iman to take control of her narrative, as she continues to serve as executive producer for Vogue’s “Supreme Model” nearly 50 years later, focusing on the evolution of Black models in the modeling and fashion industry. Focused is a six-part documentary. Based on the novel of the same name by Marcellus Reynolds, the series features interviews with industry stalwarts such as Iman, Pat Cleveland, as well as young voices such as Ebony Davis and Precious Lee.
Likewise, in the development of the series, Iman felt it necessary to center the voices of black models, who have shaped and continue to shape the industry.
Iman told TheWrap, “It’s not like one of those documentaries you’re asking people to talk about… no, let me speak for myself.” “I wanted the girls to raise their voices, tell their stories. And sure, there are enough videos to get it done, but they speak and they tell us their trials and tribulations, but most importantly, the platform of joy and celebration.”
While younger models such as Halima Aden expressed gratitude in the series that she entered the industry at a time when fashion was embracing Black beauty, Iman entered the industry at a time when it was yet to improve experiences for Black models. was not a priority.
“When I got here, one of the things I faced was that there was a pay discrepancy between the Black model and the White model, and I didn’t understand it,” she said, telling her agent. had gone to To discuss the difference.
“I told him, ‘Listen, I know this is a racist act, but I should explain it as something that you all can understand,'” she continued. “‘I want to be paid for the services rendered, which means, I want to be paid for the same work that she is doing.'” when her agent told her that the difference in payment was “as the status quo” It was, Iman told him when they were ready to give him the same amount and asked him to call him. Three months later, his reply and his payment came.
Despite winning this battle, Iman and other models of color also struggled for equity when makeup artists asked models if they brought their own foundation, a responsibility for models of color to provide their own cosmetics. While the white models were free to enjoy the range of makeup suited to their skin tone which was already done by the makeup departments. In another bold move to level the playing field of black models in the industry, Iman founded her own cosmetic line, Iman Cosmetics, in 1994.
“I understood then and there and I was barely 19 years old, that image is my currency in this industry,” Iman said. “So I have to protect it and come up with something because I’ll be faced with a day-to-day with a makeup artist who will have nothing for you.”
While Iman acknowledges that the industry has made progress in terms of representation since entering the modeling world, she cautions that “the business has a tendency to be forgotten,” pointing out that 2013A year in which a small amount of black models were used in fashion shows.
“Talks are happening, and changes are happening, but that’s what I always say” [is] Don’t take your feet off the gas,” said Iman. “Trust me, before we know it, we may be back in 2013 in a second.”
For industry veterans, true progress involves making changes at the top level so that decision-makers can reflect the diversity of models and the growing number of designers of color.
“Supreme Models” also documents the short story of the Battle of Versailles, a fashion show that took place in the Palace of Versailles in 1973 as a way of fundraising for its restoration. The historic moment represented a cultural shift that reinforced the essential role of black models in high fashion, but even avid fans of “America’s Next Top Model” may not be familiar with the story.
“In this generation, they can Google everything, that any young girl, in whatever industry she wants to go, if she wants to investigate what black beauty is, what black models did, that she can fight for Versailles.” To be able to find the ‘Supreme Model,’ that representation means a lot, but it’s nothing when you don’t actually look at it,” Iman said. “In culture, when black models … open doors, we leave the doors open behind us.”
“Supreme Models” premieres every Monday vogue youtube channel,
